RAISSA G NOBLAT

Fashion, architecture and nostalgia. A mix of feelings, references, good taste with devotion made this Autor make an exceptional exception. Not used to speak on real time matters or to expose thoughts on events happening in society. Here I’m, opening myself to the marvelous feeling that is to talk about the Jacquemus “La Casa” FW24 and where it was hosted yesterday, June 10th.

At a distinguished location, Simon Porte Jacquemus made history at Casa Malaparte. Located on the southeastern edge of Capri, on Punta Massulla, the house towers thirty-one meters above sea level.

 

“An architectural gem that personifies one of the most fascinating Italian individuals, Curzio Malaparte… The building tells the story of a man with a complex history and mysterious aura”  

– Anna Niederlander – 

 

Build in 1937-1943 by the infamous rationalist architect Adalberto Libera, hired by Curzio Malaparte, who desired to create a house that reflected his (unique) needs and personality, a far more complex proposal then the rational structure Libera imagine in the first place. 

Curzio lived a very intense, interesting and adventurous life. After so many other events that occurred in his life, In 1933 he was arrested and sentence to a five-year exile in Sicily for his publication of a guide informing readers how to stage a coups d’état. Following his release, he cherished isolation and introspection. One can only imagine what sort of feelings an artist that denied being so terribly involved with politics and fought on both world wars might’ve felt.

He chose a house that was situated on one of the most inaccessible locations on the Island and it can only be accessed by boat or foot. All of this makes so much sense with something Curzio once stated, “Man is not meant to live freely in freedom, but to be free inside a prison.”

In the end, Libera renounced his work with Malaparte, from which point on Malaparte was left to complete this venture on his own. And he did.

 

Francois Halard

Jacquemus amazed us by presenting 47 looks, with models walking at a such heavenly pace, it made me think of how beautiful and lonesome it might have been for Malaparte to live and work there alone. And it also made me realise how important the “La Casa” show was for Simon, the creator, every movement was so carefully guided, a nostalgia that would never bring you sadness. Admirable work. Art.

“In the wildest, most solitary and dramatic part of Capri, in the part which faces the south and east, where the island loses its human quality and become ferocious, where nature expresses itself with an incomparable, cruel strength, there was a promontory of an extraordinary purity of line, a rocky claw flung into the sea.” 

– Curzio Malaparte –

Now back to Simon, there was not a flaw perceived by me per say. Jacquemus is able to use “uncertain” colors with a very certain attitude. While watching his show, at times, I felt like I was watching a movie and beautiful one. Looking at the model that opened the show, Anok Yai, you can notice two very opposites demonstrations of feelings as she holds thy to her clothing wraped around her body, fineness and coziness. Isn’t it one of the two most unlikely things to look good together? To make sense togheter? Well, she looked like she was placed even higher than the house’s tirthy-one meters above ocean and like she would never let got from the piece she was wearing.

The house does not interrupt its surroundings, but merges with it, composing a geometric movement that only enhanced the show’s magic.

Who am I to state such a thing, but I dare to say Simon and Curzio would’ve made great friends. Or perhaps, two great minds working together (but at a distance). I even noticed a similarity in a white structure of the house in the picture below with a few design of the collection. I might be delusional, but I like to be like this. Swipe sideways and try to see for yourself.

God Bless this tracklist, enjoy.